The Henry Shirt Sew Along – Day 6
November 2, 2011 § 1 Comment
We are soooo close.
Today, we’re forming and attaching the collar. Don’t be intimidated by collars. Just do them. Worst thing that can happen is that you attach it upside down, you rip out the seams and attach it right side up!
Yeah, that’s what happened to me. As I was attaching it the wrong way, I had this feeling in my candy and chocolate filled gut that was telling me that something was wrong.
Listen to your gut! Yes, that does mean that if your gut says, “Eat more chocolate!” that I’m giving you permission to do so. But then again, who am I? Anywho. Back to sewing. If your instincts tell you something looks wrong, you’re probably right.
Oops! I just noticed that the lower left box says Step 27 and it should read Step 28.
I hope these photos help you see which side is the top (which you sew with right sides together). I do wish there had been more photos and/or diagrams for this section. I’m such a newbie at collars.
I searched online for a tutorial on how to do a rolled collar but either I’m impatient (likely) or there’s very little out there. If you see such a tutorial, would you link it in the comments? Thanks.
Here go more process photos.
Steps 26-30. Understandably, it doesn’t look like 5 steps but I remember breezing through this… the second time. Once you get which is the top raw edge, you’re golden.
The bias cut under collar really will stretch enough to match up to your upper collar. I can see why you’d cut the under collar on the bias. You end up with a nicely fit collar overall and I think it’s due to having the under collar pull a little when it’s all done.
Again, if you’re also new to collars and advanced patterns, don’t skip over the understitching of the under collar. It helps the collar lie flat. And if you’re like me, you’ll end up understitching everything that just begs to be understitched. It’s such a handy technique to know about and perform.
In Step 30, you’re supposed to “trim the seam allowance, clip the corners at an angle, and clip in along the curves.” I left the seam allowance and left the corners unclipped, though I did clip along the curves. My mom always clips corners but in making Podegis (a baby carrier I sell), I don’t clip the corners of the straps and have found that the corners then are sturdier than the clipped corners. I’ve also clipped a corner too far only to find a hole after turning.
I’m big into pressing as I sew. You can see that I only minimally pinned the upper collar before topstitching it. I opted not to use double-sided basting tape. I felt comfortable enough pressing with a really hot iron (burned myself at one point during the making of this shirt) and I think the result is pretty darn impeccable. I’m thrilled with myself.
One of the tools that came in handy with the collar was my pressing ham. You’ve seen it in the pictures above. Also, I mentioned the really hot iron I use. It’s an iron I bought at a second hand store. This bad boy gets hot. So hot that one pass and my seam is pressed open. It’s very handy. My other irons (I have two that don’t get love) just don’t get as hot and I find I get frustrated, even with steam. My bad boy iron can take water but I usually just have a bottle of distilled water on hand to create steam when needed.
Tomorrow’s the day, peeps! We finish the shirt! Can you believe it? Anyone sewing along?