Palmer/Pletsch McCall’s Pattern M5433
November 10, 2010 § Leave a comment
After talking with my friend Meg about the wonders of Palmer/Pletsch and the patterns and books that they have provided the sewing world, I thought I’d take my body double (still yet un-named) for another test run. How would she do if I tried a pattern on her and make some modifications?
As you can see from the photos above, she did great. She was still the whole time. Something I can’t say I do when I’m trying to fit delicate paper over my body, pin it, and adjust.
I know. Sewing humor isn’t that funny. Can’t get mad at me for trying.
So, there are some light descriptions below each photo so you can see what I am thinking of when I make those adjustments. The thing about Palmer/Pletsch patterns (I don’t work for them, nor have I received any compensation for any of my statements) is that the instructions in the pattern actually help you fit your pattern tissue so you don’t actually have to make a muslin before cutting into your treasured fabric.
Nice. Right? I would say so. There’s no guessing where that dart is gonna hit now. I’m also sure that the waist will hit my waist.
The thing I really do need to do next is to fit the pattern tissue over my left side. If you look closely, you can see that my left shoulder is higher than my right. What usually happens is that anything I make symmetrically will fit just fine on my right side but will ride up on my left side.
Up until I made my body double, my dress form, I just chalked it up to… wait. I actually just had the hourly tug of war with my clothes and figured nothing. I hadn’t thought of it until my body double told me the truth. Now, all I have to do is make sure the left side is a tad longer from the bust dart to the waist and from the bust dart to the shoulder and I won’t have that fight for fit with clothing.
So, this fitting of the tissue on the other me probably only took about 10 minutes. Maybe less.
A little guide is to start pinning the center line of the tissue on your center, making sure that the darts hit your bust apex. From there, gently smooth out the tissue so you can see what needs adjusting. Tuck and pin in the waist dart. Check the plus sign indicating where the waist should hit and align it with the line indicating your waist on the dress form. Tuck and pin the bust dart. Secure the shoulder line and adjust the tissue so the end hits just beyond where the ball of your shoulder hits. Stand back and review your work. Adjust anything else that looks off. Take photos so you can see how it looks from a different POV. Walk away so you can gain perspective, too. Enjoy.